Measuring Instructions:
A special note on proper measuring...
Before ordering be sure to measure accurately with a standard, spring
loaded steel tape measure. Carefully record your window opening size
for inside mount blinds or needed blind size for outside mount blinds.
Measurements must be to the closest 1/8", any measurements supplied in
1/16th's will be rounded down to the closest 1/8". Please simplify
measurements to the fractions of 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 and 7/8.
Be sure not to invert your width and height measurements. When
ordering, the width measurement should be written or read first,
followed by the length measurement.
How you measure for blinds depends on whether the blind is to fit
within the window / door opening (inside mount) or whether the blind is
to fit on the face of the wall / door (outside mount), overlapping past
the top, bottom and sides of the window / door opening.
Please note that all blinds, shade, and shutters are sold as a complete
assembly and each part of the blind, shade, or shutter may be smaller than the
total product dimensions.
Inside Mount Blinds
For blinds to be inside mounted, the window or door "well" must have
sufficient depth to fit the blind mounting hardware. For horizontal
blinds, pleated shades and roller shades, 1 1/2" minimum mounting depth
is recommended. Vertical blinds and plantation shutters require a
minimum of 2 1/2" for proper operation.
Measure the width in three places as shown and record the narrowest
width. Measure the length in three place as shown and record the
shortest length.
For inside mount plantation shutters, measure crossways, from the
intersection of header and jambs and compare the measurements. If the
measurements vary by more than 1/2", the window is substantially
out-of-square and should be outside mounted for proper operation.
See the bottom of this page for factory deductions and
specifications.
Outside Mount Blinds
For blinds to be outside mounted, sufficient unobstructed clearance
above, below and to the sides of the window / door opening must exist.
Blinds require a minimum of 2" above the window / door header for the
mounting brackets. A minimum of 2" to either side of the window / door
is recommended for increased privacy and light control. For windows, a
minimum of 2" below the window sill is also recommended.
Other Measuring Tips and Procedures:
French doors:
The wider and taller you specify your product, the better your privacy,
insulation, and light control. You also need room (2" to 3-1/2") for the
mounting brackets at the top, and the optional hold-down brackets
(about 2") at the bottom. Consider mounting the window treatment a bit
higher than you’d think so when the blind is raised it blocks less of
your view. Add at least 3" at the top.
For the width, add at least an inch or two on both sides of the glass.
Usually the deadbolt latch, however, will constrain the width you’d
prefer. The product will usually fall just inside the deadbolt. In the
case of a lever handle, the product will slip between the handle and
the door.
All products will work on either a wood or metal door. For metal doors,
you’ll probably need screws (metal screws) designed for attaching to
metal doors, which are normally hallow.
Tile and wood obstructions:
Sometimes tile or trim wrap around into the window, usually several
inches up from the bottom. This is common near kitchen sinks
(back-splashes) and bathtubs. Most products can be cut by the
manufacturers on the products’ sides to accommodate this. There is a
slight surcharge depending on the product and whether the cutout is on
one or both sides.
Window cranks:
Measure so that your product hangs in front of the crank. Consider
adding an inch or so to mitigate the slight bulge the product will make
as it hangs in front of the crank. Also, the crank can usually be
removed or re-positioned to point upwards, which minimizes its
projection and obstruction. You may also be able to find a crank
replacement device that looks like a wing-nut, and has a tiny
projection.
Sliding Doors:
Verticals can be specified to mount either within the door frame or
over it on the wall. When determining mounting type, consider whether
the handle is an obstruction, and / or the amount of depth available is
less than the required depth of 3 inches. There is sometimes molding or
trim near the baseboard which may have to be removed, or at least taken
into consideration when determining width. For an outside mount it is
normally sufficient to measure about 4 inches wider on both sides. The
wider you specify, the better your privacy, insulation, and light
control. For the height, specify about 3 to 5 inches above the top of
the frame. A typical height for a vertical is 84"; however, whatever
you prefer is fine. Please note that your ordered size includes both vanes
and the headrail assembly.
Arches:
We’ve found that nearly all arched windows are imperfect (not a perfect
semi-circle), but it is best if your shade is made "perfectly". You’ll
then use a sharp straight edge to trim the shade as needed. If your
width is 60" then your height should be 30". You may instead provide an
exact template of the window, imperfections and all, and we’ll have it
made to the template.
Windows without a top (arched/angled top):
There is no special measuring required, but you’ll need to ask for
side-mount brackets.
Shallow sill depth:
See our charts regarding the manufacturer’s minimum sill depths
required to fasten the brackets, and the minimum depth necessary for a
flush mount (where the product does not protrude into the room. It has
been our experience, however, that only 5/8" to 3/4" is all that is
necessary to securely anchor most brackets; you’ll need to angle the
screw back towards the glass and occasionally add one extra bracket.
Corner windows:
When two outside mount verticals meet in a corner, or when other inside
mount products meet in a corner where there is only glass (no
sheetrock), there can be a privacy problem. That's due to a gap where
the products "meet". In order to minimize the problem, consider making
one product bypass the other, then specify the other product to butt
into the first.
Templates:
Templates are easy to make and give great results when done properly. All you
need is some butcher paper, masking tape, and scissors. First, cut a piece
of the paper slightly longer than the width of your window. We recommend
at least six inches wider than the window. Next, tape the paper across the
window, making sure that the straight, factory edge of the paper lines up
exactly with where you want the bottom of the shade, shutter, or blind. Make sure the paper is stretched tightly across the window to assure
an accurate measurement. Once the paper is up, carefully trace the window
outline with the lead edge of a pencil. Remove the paper from the window
and cut the paper exactly on
your line to shape the paper exactly to your window. Be sure to label the
paper with your full name, phone number, job number, product type, and which
side is room facing and which side faces outward, toward the glass. Lastly,
place the paper back into the window, making sure it fits the opening perfectly,
fitting the paper all the way back glass. Finally, roll up the paper in
a tube, and mail it to the factory address listed on our Contact US Page. After you place
an order online for a product requiring a template, we ask that you ship your
template to our manufacturing facility within five days of your order. We
will begin production on your product as soon as your template arrives.
Please note that most inside mount products are made slightly smaller
than your template to assure a proper fit.
